Amsterdam, Paris, Portugal

Hello! Ruth and I had a great time in Amsterdam, despite staying in a terrible hostel. We arrived from Berlin to find out they had `lost` our reservation. The first night we had to share a very narrow top bunk, with our feet in each others face. I had to tuck the sheet around me like a hammock not to fall 6 feet to the floor. It was dirty, cramped, and smelled funny...probably the worst hostel we have stayed at, which means it was pretty bad. Regardless, our stay was wonderful. We rented bikes for the majority of our stay and explored the endless corners and canals of Amsterdam. It is a beautiful city. You turn a corner and you´re right in an impressionist landscape. We visited the amazing Van Gogh museum and did the Heineken Experience, which consisted of a virtual and multimedia brew tour, as well as beer tasting! Turns out, as with everything in Amsterdam, Heineken is extremely expensive, even though its brewed right in town. We left early on July 9th and met Carra in Brussels. The rendezvous was successful and we had lunch and a Belgian waffle. Afterwards, got back on the train headed for Paris!



Upon arrival in Paris, we learned that we would not be able to leave until July 13th, due to the Running of the Bulls, Tour de France, and Holiday weekend. Sooo, we had to cancel our plans for San Sebastian and Madrid, Spain. Being stuck in Paris turns out not to be such a bad thing. We had to hostel hop every night but it didn´t stop us from seeing all the sights and getting a taste of Parisian life. On day one, we visited the Notre Dame cathedral and explored the Latin Quarter. We made our way to the overwhelmingly massive and famous Louvre Museum. We saw tons of statues, including the elegantly powerful Winged Victory and the classic ideal beauty of the Venus de Milo. We wandered endless halls of French paintings, Egyptian artwork and artifacts, and Italian paintings, featuring Botticelli, Rapheal, Caliari, Da Vinci, and many others. We jostled for a peek at the mysterious and dissappointing Mona Lisa. Its tiny, drab, and not that impressive. The ambiguity of her expression and her distant beauty create the allure, but the surrounding walls were much more impressive. Its confusing to think about why and how certain paintings become iconical, while others are ignored.

The next day we picked up where the Louvre left off and visited the Museum d`Orsay. We absolutely loved this building. Set in an old train station, you wind your way through conservative French paintings, on to Realism, then to the works of Manet which led into the star-studded Impressionist (and-post) era of Toulouse-Letrec, Matisse, Monet, Pissaro, Van Gogh, Renoir, and others in no particular order. It is the most amazing collection I have ever seen, well organized and free-flowing. Afterwards, we wanted more Impressionism and visited the Orangerie Museum in the Tuillieres Garden. We were short for time, but we saw Monet´s stunning water lillies that take up two massive oval rooms. We had no idea they were so large. I loved them. We saw more Monet and Pissaro, whom we began to like very much, and caught a glimpse of some pre-modern art. They kicked us out, we would love to go back. That night we had an amazing meal down the street from out hotel. Started with wine and fried duck rolls, then duck filet, chicken kebabs, a tasty Sole all served with rosemary potatoes and vegetables. It was authentic and delicious and the staff were fun and very helpful.

Next day we visited Versailles in the cold rain with 1000s of other tourists and small children. We got through an extremely long line without too much of a wait thanks to our Museum Passes and toured the Chateau. The inside was beautiful and you can almost imagine Marie Antoinette and Old Henry prancing around the palace...didnt end too well for them though. We walked through the Hall of Mirrors and the War Hall, which featured old French war paintings juxtaposed to graphic images of modern war spanning from WWI to Vietnam to Afghanistan and Africa. It was emotionally moving, interesting from a media standpoint, and overwhelming to think how common the thread of war is to any society, how history repeats itself, and how tiresome these images can be despite whether its painted in glory or photographed in crossfire. We returned to Paris and visited the Pompidou Center that houses the Museum of Modern Art. It was very different and really entertaining. After passing over endless portraits of French aristocrats all morning it was a relief to see wedding gowns made out of plastered wire, cardboard, hot wheel cars, and detached limbs of baby dolls. A multimedia playground that could keep even the art haters occupied for hours. Upstairs a long corridor featured modern art from early 1900s to 1960s. Spanning from Jackson Pollack, to Matisse, to Picasso, to Salvador Dali...to name a few of the populars. My favorites were the works of a Hungarian born artist named Simon Hantai who developed the technique of folding, in which you crumble pieces of paper, splash them with vibrant paint, unfold them in a different way and spread them onto the canvas. It creates blank space on the canvas, interrupted by chaotic forms of color. Not only does it look supercool, but it takes away the subjectivness of the artist entirely and the results are imagined but not necessarily intended. One huge painting had fragments of earlier works...a cross, a womans bust, etc...covered with the folding technique, then inscribed with liturgical and philosophical sentences, phrases, and quotations at random entirely from top to bottom. Every morning for a year, he spent writing in various colors and forms across this painting, while living in a monastery somewhere in Italy...intense. Afterwards, we had pizza and made our way to the Eiffel Tower. We waited in the longest line yet, in order to climb up to the 2nd level in time for the last bit of sunlight to fade. The views were breathtaking and the tower itself in monstrous. We made our descent and walked to the adjacent park where we witnessed the tower light up in a 1000 flashing lights, which occurs every hour after sunset.

We slept in the next day, checked out and began dwindling the day down until our night train. We visited Sacre Ceour in the Montmarte district and laid in the park, reading, getting sun. We spent the rest of the day eating and drinking at various local places. Finally, we got on the night train headed for the Spain border of Irun. We shared a 6 bed couchette with 3 guys from South Carolina, crazy. We arrived at the border, exhausted and switched to another train to Madrid that would take about 6 hours...an extreme travel day. It was on this train that I realized I left some food, clothing, my water bottle that ive had for 7 weeks, and my journal (an entire spiral notebook filled with a month and a half of writing) behind. I was extremely upset with myself and still sad about what Ive lost, only the journal. I feel like Ive left my mind behind. Although, now I am all the more thankful that I have been keeping a blog, and Ill always have this (hence the detail of this post). Computer beats paper in this battle.

Anyways, we arrived in Madrid around 2pm and thankfully got a spot on the night train that night to Lisbon, Portugal or else we would have been scrambling to find a last minute hostel. Madrid is beautiful and I wish we would have had more time there, but we had to catch up with our schedule/existing reservations after the setback in Paris, and we were dying for a beach. We wandered through town, around the Royal Theatre and Palace, and entered the Cathedral. It was unexpectedly our favorite cathedral yet. It is difficult to describe why but it was very calm inside, with lovely music playing, quiet lighting, and tasteful artwork. The stained glass was simple, geometric, almost abstract. The ceiling was painted with secular patterns that were just as inspiring as another Mary or Jesus on the Cross. We spent a good amount of time just circling the altar and gazing up towards the ceilings. We made our way back through town, down winding streets and the Gran Avenue. Loved the architecture there, its vibrant and youthful with a definite sense of history though. We laid in the park for a bit, had delicious tapas and ice cream, then returned to the station to board our second straight night train in a row. This one was more miserable than the last. Already on minimal sleep our cabin was disgustingly hot and unluckily located over the axel, which provides for a very bumpy ride. I was really, although wrongfully afraid we were going to suffocate in there. We didnt but it was miz!

We arrived in Lisbon and made our way to the Guincho Surf Beach Hostel located in Cascais (Cash-CAI) by various modes of public transportation. Immediately upon arrival, we were greeted with extreme kindness and help from bus drivers and citizens. Without them, we would have ended up in the bushes of the National Park somewhere (which apparently has happened before). On our last bus, we had a lively group of elderly, gap-toothed, grocery-weilding citizens all pitching in and discussing how we were to arrive at our destination. They were very kind and warm, we were very gracious (and still mildly confused)...Portugese is impossible to understand, especially when you try to pick up on Spanish similarities...doesnt work. As the bus rumbled down narrow, pot-holed roads further into the valley and we were the only ones remaining on the bus we started to worry. No need, however, the bus driver took us to where we needed to go and let us know we needed to get out. No more buses.

We found are hostel with no signage, the direction just said, the one with the white satellite dish. Fortunately, they are not prevalent as you might expect, so we walked up and through the cracked door. Stepping in, we were sure we were breaking and entering someones private home. Going around back we banged on the door again and were greeted by a Dutch girl staying there. We were exhilarated that this was in fact it! This hostel is amazing. Clean, neat, cozy and feels like home. Everything is decorated with IKEA products and the back porches look out over the valley and out onto the Atlantic! We dropped our stuff in the living room and headed straight to the beach. Beautiful sand beaches surrounded by jagged cliffs and the castle-crowned mountain. It is beautiful beyond words here, and the sun is equally as brutal. The wind and water were cold, and not suprisingly we got burnt...Carra getting the worst of it. I rode on a Vespa with the guy who works at the hostel (Max) to the local fishmarket. Bought some trout and big shrimp to cook the next two days. We all grilled out and sat on the porch sharing travel stories, I felt like I was at Topsail with foreigners! It was great!

We all had a rude awakening this morning...Carra got up early to use the bathroom and put more aftersun on her legs and passed out cold in the hallway outside the bathroom. Luckily, wacko woman staying at the hostel was there to help her and wake us up. She came to shortly after and we got Jorge (the owner of the hostel) over to call a doctor. We refused an ambulance and just nursed her back to strength until we could go to the doctor. Jorge was beyond helpful and generous. He is not only the best hostel owner weve met, but one of the most genuine, interesting, and kind person we have met on our entire journey. He went out and got us squeezed orange juice and all sorts of delicious local pastries. We sat around talking with him until he could take us to the pharmacy at 9am. Carra was drained but uninjured and, well, not fainting. Turns out it was most likely a combination of low blood pressure, sunburn, dehydration, and our recent travels that brought it on.

After the pharmacy, Jorge took us in his car on what turned out to be at least a two hour trip around the surrounding hills. He took us to the Cabo de Roca, a jutting cape that is the most western point in all of Europe. It is capped by a lighthouse and monument to seafarers. This is the closest we have been to home in 2 months, and it was breathtaking. Steep cliffs lead down to isolated beaches and fisherman rake the coast for the abundance of wildlife that exist here. Its mindblowing to see our ocean from the other side. Then we went on a gorgeous ride along the ridge and up the mountain to the castle and down into the town of Sintra. It, as well, was so amazing. The tiny streets were lined with flowers, shops, and elegant `palaces´ where people still live today. Jorge showed us where he grew up, the back door to the estate where he used to sneak out, and the Church he went to (now all owned by the state, but still lived in by others) Passing by all the houses and insane views from the mountain he continued to give us firsthand history lessons on the land and the people. The best tour and tour guide you could ask for, all done out of his kindness and genuine interest in people and his home.

When we returned, Ruth and I went to the beach again while Carra rested, and wisely used an entire new bottle of sunscreen. We watched dozens of surfers catch huge waves. We all spent the afternoon hanging out with Max, reading, listening to music, cooking, and visiting more with Jorge (we cooked him dinner, shrimp fried rice..sort of, it was awesome). This has been one of the most pleasant experiences we have had, despite Carra´s spell. The Portugese, like the weather, are warm, shining, and beautiful. They live well but never extravagantly. They are born here, and they proudly die here. They live off and with the land, having a very green mindset. Parsley grows wild as a weed and they can grow lemon, orange, and fig trees in their backyards. Their bus system sucks but thats just the way it is and always will be. They are calm and gracious. From the bus driver, to the market owner, to Jorge they meet you with a smile, willful assistance, and chit chat although not understood by us. I loved this place and I seriously must come back, I know there is so much more to see here. Tomorrow we are heading to Lagos located on the Southern tip of Portugal. Its a party place and will certainly be a change but if the coast looks anything like it does here, I think we will be just fine. We stay there for two nights, head to Sevilla, Spain for the day then a night train to Barcelona from where we will fly back to the States...Carra on the 22nd, Ruth and I on the 23rd. I cant believe its coming to an end, I dont want to believe it, but it must and I am so happy for the experiences we have had and the people we have met along the way. Will most likely catch up in Barcelona before we head back. Hope all is well, see you soon. Love.

Whew!

Hello everyone! We have been on a whirlwind since Munich and we aren't slowing down. Internet has been scarce and expensive and we haven't had much down time (which is good), so I apologize for the delay. Munich was amazing, one of our favorite cities. The capital of Bavaria has such a distinct culture. They hold tightly to their traditions and haven't changed much through the centuries. They are still very Catholic, they still speak their age old southern dialect, they drink tons of beer, and the men still wear leatherpants...and are proud of it! It is a vibrant city founded on beer and being yourself. Despite its resistence and desire to secede, Munich became the capital of the Nazi movement and it experienced first hand the cruelties of Hitler and being on the losing side of a World War. Pretty much all of Munich was bombed to the ground, but thanks to the Nazis love and subsequent detailed documentation of the city it was rebuilt accurately and beautifully. Scars from bullet holes in the facades stand as a constant reminder of violence and defeat. Also, a vivid reminder of the atrocities of the Nazi regime, is Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial that we visited. It is located just outside Munich and was the first concentration camp under Hitler that served as a model for the rest. On arrival we watched a 30 minute documentary on the camp and the murder of millions of political, social, and religious prisoners over the span of 1933 to 1945, over 40,000 in Dachau alone. It was graphic, violent, and horrific bringing tears to the eyes. Walking around the camp, on the same ground where innocent lives were beaten, humiliated, and defiled until their deaths, was an emotional experience. There is a feeling of disconnect, a sense of disbelief, that something like this could actually happen for so long and in such staggering numbers. But it did and its important that we always remember those that fought for their lives by hanging on to all they had, each other and their souls...and never let it happen again.

The next day we departed for Switzerland, leaving the rain (for the most part) behind us. We arrived in Luzern, a beautiful medieval city located at the end of Lake Luzern, surrounded by rolling hills and alpine mountains. We explored the city, walking over covered, flower lined bridges and down cobbled alleys. The architecture is different than we have seen and they light up the facades perfectly giving the town a great medieval mood. The next day we took part in the free street festival going on, listening to big band music and drinking beers along the lake. It was a great introduction to Switzerland, a very laid back, clean, and environmentally conscious people. We headed to Interlaken, the extreme sports capital of the world! Very excited, we arrived at Balmer's Hostel, which resembled a frat house in look and occupants. It was hot, the beds were horrible, but they had great happy hour and courtyard for lounging. The next day, we had great weather, perfect for outdoor sports...liiike...SKYDIVING!!!!! Sorry mamma Reynolds, but we just had to. We were bussed 20 minutes outside town into the next valley with a group from our hostel and others. We went through an uncomfortably brief instruction session and partnered up with instructors. Ruth and I were to go in the second plane, which made 3 separate trips. So we watched, very anxiously as the first plane circled back over the landing zone. Squinting to make out the plane, we eventually saw dots falling from the plane. Its beginning to be real. We watched the others land in excitement, and then the next thing we knew we were boarding the plane. There were 11 people in this tiny plane, we were sitting in each others laps and a camera guy laying over us. We got off the ground and flew for 15 minutes over the amazing Swiss alps. Feeling a little uneasy, but our eccentric instructors were lightening the mood with jokes and pretending like they had forgotten something essential. Then the door flies open rushing cold and very high air into the plane. Elaine is scheduled to go last (great) and Ruth third. The first pair goes, then the second, then Ruth inches to the edge...it was priceless to watch her fall and scream out of the plane. I literally froze at that point, Mick had to crabwalk me to the edge of the plane. While he was sitting on the edge, I was dangling outside the plane...and we fell forward doing a barrel roll. After initially closing my eyes I open them, to see the plane above me and me falling away and down from it...an unnatural sight, to say the least. 50 seconds of freefall and constant screaming. It is a very strange and unreal sensation to freefall from 13000ft going approx. 120mph attached to nothing. The force of gravity is overwhelming and it feels like your floating, rather than falling. But the ground is getting closer, and the parachute catches, and a sense of relief sets in...we are most likely going to live. The parachute ride was about 5 or 7 minutes, and at this point, you can actually look around and enjoy the amazing scenery that you just fell into. Landing was fun then Ruth and I ran across the field into each others arms!! Screaming and laughing uncontrollably. It was hard to stand, walk, or see. It took a while to stop shaking and start breathing normally again. It was the most amazing, exhilarating, and intense single experience we have ever had. And we want to do it again!!!! soon. We enjoyed the rest of our time in Interlaken and did an intense highropes course that left us sore for days...also very fun!

The next day we headed to Heidelberg, Germany to set ourselves up to explore the Rhine Valley. Heidelberg was very pretty, we explored the town but didn't see too many sights. We left early the next morning headed for Bacharach, a small, very old town along the Rhine. We hiked up through town, through a vineyard, to a tower overlooking the Rhine landscape. The river is broad, fast-flowing, and busy with tour boats and cargo ships. We had a sausage and hopped on the ferry, taking a 45 minute cruise up the most scenic stretch of the Rhine. Its lined with castles built in the 12th or 13th century, terraced farmland, and cute little towns. We stopped at St. Goar and toured Rheinfels castle, the most well preserved castle ruins in Europe. We hiked around inside and up the castle for amazing views of the fertile lands stretching out from the Rhine, then crawled through dark mine passages. We hopped back on the train and headed for Cologne, Germany (4th destination in one day). We arrived in Cologne late and played poker with 3 guys from Liverpool, who talked like the guys from Lock, Stock, and Two Smoking Barrels (they were hilarious), a musician from LA, and a quirky guy from Finland. It was an interesting bunch and we played for pasta, but it was fun! The next day we explored the old downtown of Cologne, going into the massive Cathedral and walking along the river. We hopped on the train early afternoon and headed for Berlin.

Berlin is a vibrant, interesting place...the Rome of Germany. It is big and energetic. Everything is covered in graffiti giving it a modern, pop beauty. We walked through town from the Brandenberg Gate, Reichstag, the disorienting Jewish Memorial, down the main drag past the hotel where MJ dangled the baby (P.S. RIP King of Pop, we are deeply sad and have since been hearing your music everywhere!), past Humbolt University where Marx and Lenin studied and where Einstein taught until moving to Princeton in 1932, good move (he was Jewish), over Museum Island, and to Alexanderplatz, home of the largest TV tower that skies over Berlin. That night, the 4th of July, yay America!, we joined a pub crawl, visiting 4 or 5 bars and ending at a club. We had a fun night to say the least, met fun people, and celebrated USA quietly...we got through the night without hearing any USA chants, its a good thing. Berlin has a crazy nightlife, where clubs stay open until the sun rises...but thats not unique for Europe. Today we seeked out real Berlin by wandering through an awesome flea market, Europe has the best! eating great pizza and ice cream, and lounging in a nearby park listening to music and doing some great people watching. Tomorrow, July 6th, we head to Amsterdam, and are super excited! Carra meets us in Brussels on July 9th, after which we will head to Paris, San Sebastian Spain, Madrid, Cascais Portugal (right outside Lisbon), Lagos Portugal, then head back to Barcelona from where we will fly back to the states on July 23rd. We have less than 3 weeks left, we are sad about that, but we have a busy schedule, lots to see, and Carra is coming!!! Love!

Budapest, Vienna, Prague

We very much enjoyed the rest of our time in Budapest. The day after the bike trip I was feeling much better, yay! We started a trek through town, scoping out the huge Parliamentary buildings along the riverside. We crossed over the Chain Bridge, on foot, to the Buda side. The bridge offers an excellent view of both sides, a great breeze, and a dizzying look down to the rushing waters of the Danube. The day before we biked up to Castle Hill, we were tired, so we cheated and took a touristy, over-priced lift up. You could barely see out and we felt really lazy for cheating, especially when we ran into our bike tour guide, Marta. She is normally a personal trainer and has perfected the subtle I-can't-believe-you-could-be-so-lazy look. However, we got to the top and with a little trouble, found the laybrinths. We had learned the day before, that under the castles and palaces is a maze of limestone labyrinths. In the past, they were used for protection of the nobility in case of invasion, as well as their natural wine cellar with it being the perfect natural temperature. These particular labyrinths could hold up to 10,000 people, as well as animals and raw goods if needed. Budapest is built on a limestone delta that leads to the shores of the Danube. This environment makes hundreds of natural springs and these labyrinths possible, as the waters have continuously carved out the land over the centuries. However, people are concerned that this hollow ground coupled with increased development could lead to catastrophic sinkholes in the future. In fact, measures have already been taken to reinforce the support under certain areas of the city. We explored the dark, cold, wet, and really creepy labyrinths. They had censored music, statues, and wall paintings set up throughout. It was a little cheesy, but something different. We finally found what we were looking for. A room with a large, ivy covered column that dispenses red wine from four different spouts. We were told that you could fill up bottles and take them with you. It is certainly red wine and you could certainly take it with you, but it reeked and tasted horrible. Of course, I tried it despite a plaque on the wall saying that the wine was not suitable for consumption. Dissappointing, but still cool to see red wine coming out of the walls. We wandered through a few parks, had our 5th something gyro in the past few days and went out with some people from our hostel. We went to a crazy art bar/dance club with a dj and 2 girls obviously on some sort of psychedelic drugs. It was a little awkward so we went to a smaller, simpler place with some live music. We met some really nice guys from Colorado and the air force academy, had a great time. Budapest is a very interesting, lively, expressive, and alternative place. We would love, love to come back here!!!

Very early the next day, we jumped on a train to Vienna to meet up with Molly! The scenery from Budapest to Vienna was so beautiful. Rolling hills scattered with little villiages, sandstone castles perched on cliffsides, and hundreds of hundreds of huge wind turbines in wide open fields. It has been a trend in Europe and its great to see. I don't understand why opposers argue that they are aesthetically compromising. They look beautiful, especially when you think of the bounties of their production. We arrived in Vienna and met Molly at Museumsquartier over a much-desired cheeseburger. We entertained ourselves while she finished up her exams. We walked all over the old city, into the cathedral, through the many parks that beautify Veinna, and under some gorgeous "neo-architecture." Like Budapest, most of the buildings in Vienna are renovated and rebuilt or currently in the process, after much of the old city was intentionally bombed (by Churchill) at the end of WWII. New and wide pedestrian streets link evocative monuments for the victims of communism and the plague. That night, we got 3 euro standing room tickets for the opera, in the beautiful and renowned State Opera House. The singing was beautiful and in German. We didn't know much of what was going on, but enjoyed watching the orchestra section. Their timing was impeccable. The sound was amazing and the building beautiful...opera itself...kinda boring.

The next day we toured the Hofburg Palace, where the dominant Hapsburgs ruled for centuries. Much of the museum is dedicated to the commercialized figure of Empress Sisi, emperor Franz Josef's wife, who ruled the late 1800's until 1916. She was a tortured, unusual woman who used world travel, riding, and revealing poetry to escape the confines of the court and a life of wealth and fame that she never wanted. She was an advocate for civil and national rights, especially those of the Hungarians. Unfortunately, she was stabbed in the heart by an anarchist. She left a lot behind, but in her poetry she conflictingly longed for death, seeing it as the ultimate form of freedom. It wasn't until after her death that people understood her, Austrians became obesessed with her, and very astute ad agencies profited off her face, belongings, and her name...19th century Princess Diana. We met Molly at her school and began to celebrate her finishing exams!! and my 23rd Birthday!! It rained when we got our first drink and didn't stop until the next night. We still had a fabulous and memorable time!! Molly and her roommates were very hospitable and tons of fun. Thanks again!

We took another beautiful train ride to Prague. Using a bad map and even worse directions from our hostel, it took us over an hour to find it. Reallz frustrating, but we finally got there. We had planned on letting the reception have it for posting terrible and inaccurate directions on the website, but it was a hippie haven hostel and they were super nice...I didnt want to crush the vibes. The next day we attacked the city, walking from the famous Wenceslas square, through the new town to the old town. Prague is packed with great architecture, churches, and shops...great walking city. We visited the Museum of Communism that had a multi media display painting a vivid picture of the Communist dream, its subsequent nightmare, and the long struggle for freedom by Czechs and Slovaks. An emotional memorial remembers Jan Palach, a 25 year old philosophy student, who set fire to himself on the steps of the National Museum in Wenceslas Square, becoming a martyr for personal freedom and expression. He died 4 days later in a hospital, pleading that others not follow in his path. He became a powerful symbol for the opposition movement, which 20 years later, saw the fall of communism under the banner of the Velvet Revolution.

We walked over the famous Charles Bridge to the quaint Little Quarter and Castle Square. We wandered on trails over Petriin Hill and up to the castle. The square is very authentic and real. You can really imagine nobles riding on horesback up the cobbles lanes lined with merchant kiosks and townspeople leaning out of their flowered windows. The architecture of the palaces and courtyards is beautiful and the views of Prague are breathtaking. We went into St. Vitus Cathedral, a magnificent structure with some of the most intricate and colorful stained glass displays. Wandering back through town, it began to rain. Since that Friday in Vienna, it has been rainy and cold everywhere we have been. However, it did not stop us from visiting the local kareoke bar with half of our hostel our last night in Prague. We had a blast and sang all the usuals...Madonna, some Britney, George Micheal, Journey. We felt like we were right at Home Port! We had a little too good of a time, failing to wake up for the check out time. In pure hippie fashion, it was no problem! and we painfully caught our train to Munich.

Arriving in Munich, it is colder and rainy still. We are staying at Wombats Hostel, with some girls from our hostel in Prague! We have been starting to see some of the same people from the various places we have been. In Prague, we ran into a few guys we met in Budapest at the Communist museum. You quickly bond with people you meet and then quickly leave them, not before embarrassing yourself with kareoke. Its strange but it makes for a lively and friendly atmosphere. We plan to take the free walking tour from our hostel tomorrow and the next day we are going to Dachau concentration camp. Munich seems like a great place with lots to do, if only the rain would GO AWAY! On June 26th we head to Lucerne and then Interlaken Switzerland! We will keep you posted. Love!

ROME

We knew we would like Rome, but we absolutely LOVE Roma! We arrived on Friday midday, went to the Colosseum. It is amazing to stand in the arena where 50 to 70,000 Romans once roared, thirsting for the blood of gladiators or wild animals. The ruins have taken on an amazing shape, almost crumbling in the right spots, to make the structure look so ancient and so beautiful, and it really is. We walked around took 1000 pictures and wandered through the museum that we didnt know was there. They had some interesting ruins and artifacts found in the Colosseum and around the Roman Forum area. One case of note, was a collection of animal bones, a horse, boar, and large cat skull found in the cellars of the Colosseum...crazy! We read about how Commodus, notorius for his excessive and cruel antics, would fill the arena with 100s of ostriches and he and his friends would decapitate them with arrows, just for fun...and to please the crowd.

That night we went on a self guided night walk across Rome with a bottle of wine. Starting at the Campo de Fiori we walked through Piazza Navona, where aspiring artists and, apparently circus performers displayed their skills. We saw the Pantheon at night, threw a coin in the Trevi fountain, and ended at the Spanish Steps. Rome is like one big street party at night. The next day we got up a little sluggish and made it to the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum. We started Rick Steves Roman Forum walk at the Arch of Titus, a monument that the captured Jewish slaves were forced to build, along with the Colosseum, after Rome sacked Isreal. It led past the massive remnants of the Basilica of Constantine, past the Temple of Antonius Pius and Faustina. The green door of the temple sat about 30 feet above what is now the forum floor. It was once covered in centuries of dirt, before the excavations of the 1800s began to unearth what was underneath. We saw the temple of Julius Caesar, where he was burned and buried after being assassinated in the Senate. The Curia, or senate house, was vast with great acoustics. You can just imagine 300 senators sitting on their pedestals, hashing out the laws of the land. Or 600 powerhungry, canniving eyes planning their next assassination.. One of our favorites was a remnant of the once circular Temple of Vesta, where as long as the eternal fire burned, Rome would still stand. The Vestal Virgins, lived behind it. These women, chosen from noble families, vowed to abstain for 30 years, keep the home fires burning, and live a life of pious loyalty to Rome. After their term, they were either given a dowry to marry, or deemed unworthy, drug through the Roman Forum behind a chariot, given a loaf of bread and lantern then buried alive. Unfortunately, most faced the latter fate. It astounded us to learn how Romans, after death, can mistreat their once revered so badly, tarnishing their names and legacies forever.

Sadly, Ruth wasnt feeling well, we both caught a little bug, I got it a day later. So the rest of that day I wandered around the city, visited some Monuments, climbed Capitol Hill, went to the prison where St. Peter was held before his crucifiction, and revisited the Pantheon during the day. I walked down a few alleys and popped into some churches. Went through a back door and found myself at a wedding. I have no idea who the couple was or what the priests were saying, but it was lovely!! The next day we started at the National Museum of Rome, filled with statues from Roman and even ancient Greek times. We saw the famous Discus Thrower, a perfect circular piece displaying the epitome of male athleticism. The Sleeping Hermaprodite, beautiful goddess from the rear, and then the front, well... We made our way back to the Coloseum area because I wanted to show Ruth everything I saw the day before. We went into the Capitoline Museum together. It led you through palatial rooms decorated in frescoes and statues depicting the history of Rome. The main attraction was the gigantic Marcus Aurelius equestrian statue that stood in the Capitol Hill square before Michelangelo renovated it.

Our bus to Sorrento didnt leave until 3 pm, so the next morning we got up early and made our way to Vatican City. It was suprisingly easy to get into. We were pressed for time so we started on the 4 miles of display in the Vatican museum. Keeping a good pace and trying to soak it all in. It started with artifacts from Egypt and Mesopotamia with great cuneiform tablets, led you through the history of Rome, and culminated in the much anticipated Sistine Chapel. We saw amazing frescoes and huge works by Rapheal: The School of Athens and The Debate. These works, sum up the entire Renaissance effort, perfect color, realism, and balance. These pieces were designed by Rapheal, while his assistants did much of the grunt work. On the other hand, the next room displayed the single, greatest artistic achievement by one man. Michelangelos Sistine Chapel is perfection beyond the Renaissance and beyond human understanding. The color, detail, and content of The Last Judgement would move an atheist to kneel and pray for His forgiveness. We left through a back door which took us directly into St. Peters Basilica, the most amazing church I have ever seen. It holds Michelangelos flawless Pieta, as the body of Jesus drapes over Marys lap. Her facial expression is so compassionate and sacrificial it captures the moment of his death in complete human terms. The basilica is lavishly ornate from top to bottom. The original church was extremely expensive to build, so the Church, always a step ahead, sold Forgiveness to the rich and powerful for a large monetary sum...and thats how it was built.

Rome is one big paradox and always has been. The contrast between ancient and modern is so clear because its so close together. Florence is rich in art and history, but Rome is saturated. You walk down a street, look into a ditch and see crumbling pillars that have been there for centuries. Everywhere, you can see the physical layers of civilizations being built on top of one another. Those people or places have been forgotten or remembered. They are seen in the faces of the monuments and statues, or they are covered by centuries of silt and new foundations. Regardless, their mark is still there and you can feel it under your feet, in the beautiful churches, among the ruins, and in the constant roar and motion of the eternal city. The harness of history is strong and undeniable, but the push and pull of modern Rome is dynamic, very relevant, and extremely fun. For this, you cant resist the urges to come back. And we will, we promised!

Siena and Florence Reflection

We have arrived in Siena from Florence, before we head to Rome. We had an amazing time in Florence. We stayed for 4 nights and hit all the major stops. Our hostel was sub-par. The guy who ran it was unfriendly and unhelpful, he sat in the front room all day staring at the computer and chain smoking cigs. The kitchen was filthy. We scrubbed it down since we would be using it for 4 days. We cooked some great meals, it is really expensive to eat out in Florence. Our room was big and clean to begin with, but an army of mosquitos attacked every night, leaving us covered in bites. Luckily Florence is so awesome that we didnt have to spend too much time in the hostel.

The first day we went to see the Duomo, Ghibertis bronze doors of the Baptistry, and went into the Duomo Museum. I have written pages and pages describing and reflecting on what we have seen, but I will spare you my own opinions for the sake of time and interest. In the Duomo museum, the highlights were Donatellos wooden carving of Mary Magdelene matted in her hair. It is a grotesque rendition that Im still pondering. My favorite was Michelangelos Pieta, originally meant to go on top of his own tomb, with Nicodemus carrying the face of Mich, while holding the limp body of Christ. The angst and compassion in Nicodemus face, sums up Michelangelos conflicted life and his struggles with religion up until his death. After the museum, we climbed the Campanile, for amazing panoramic views of the city and a close up, unreal sight of the mammoth Duomo. We lost our map, so we decided to just wander. Florence is a great, and safe city to get lost in. We walked through the Uffizi Courtyard and the main Piazza del Signoria, where the fake David towers among other notable statues available to gaze and walk around.

Next day we had reservations to visit the Uffizi Gallery at 8 15am. We got in no problem, ahead of the crowd, with fresh, alert minds. We wandered slowly through the Gallery, literally in awe. It is the largest collection of Italian Renaissance art, in one place, on Earth. You could spend weeks and weeks going through each room, reading each description, and analyzing each painting. I admire anyone who actually would, (or want to for that matter). We spent a little over 3 hrs and it was exhausting. It is a whirlwind of frescoes, Madonna and Childs, Jesus on the Cross, etc... Our favorites were the Boticelli room with Alleghory of Springtime, Birth of Venus, and I particularly like Slander, showing how the political and religious tides in Florence changed as Savonarola came blazing through town with his speeches of damnation. Complete contrast to Springtime, showing ashamed Florentines all in accusation of each other, the classical statues looking down in disgust from their niches in the walls, and Venus pleading to the heavens, asking what had become of the human race. The Renaissance, like everything, had to end...or just shift elsewhere. We liked Rapheal, and works from the Venetian Renaissance, all they way up to art from the late 17th and early 18th century, leaning towards impressionism. We loved it, if I had the energy I would have turned around and done it again...but we will just have to come back!

We went to the Bargello and toured a great collection of Michelangelo and Donatello statues, as well as artifacts from 1000 plus years ago. There was too much to talk about in there. We were both really into the statues, especially after seeing endless Madonnas with gold backgrounds.
The next day we did Accademia at 815 again, ahead of the crowds!! It was great! We saw Michelangelos David, the original one, looking more like Goliath than a lowly shepards boy with a slingshot. Its hard to put into words, its just huge and perfect, and amazing. Equally, if not more interesting, were his Prisoner statues. A collection of unfinished pieces that really show the tedious struggle of sculpturing. As Mich viewed the art and rock, the figures and bodies are literally struggling to be revealed, just as the human soul struggles to emerge from whatever rock that binds it. There was a temporary exhibit of the works of famous American photographer, Robert Mapplethorpe. It was interesting how they parralleled his work to the statues of Michelangelo. He was a tortured artist as well, trying to reveal the beauty through a different type of medium. He died early, from AIDS, at age 43.

Last night we climbed to Piazzale Michelangelo with a bottle of wine and watched the sun go down over the city and the Ponte Vecchio. Florence is beautiful at night, as well. There is nowhere that I have been (yet), where the past and present mingle so closely together. Only in Florence can you listen to a man sing Paul Simon and the Beatles to a crowd of 15o under the marble eyes of Machiavelli, Donatello, Dante, and Leo the Magnificent in the Uffizi Courtyard. Only in Florence can you gaze into the eyes of David as he sizes up Goliath, turn the corner and drool over a Prada or Gucchi purse youll never own. Only in Florence can you walk under the Medicis secret passageway over the Ponte Vecchio and see a man get thrown from his bike after being hit by a lost tourist in a speeding Peugot (yes, really happened, he was ok, we helped him get his bike out of the street). And only in Italy, will you throw away your clothes to make room for the best pesto, cheese, bread, and balsamic. Then again we are heading for Rome!

Cinque Terre...Lucca

Cinque Terre was amazing!!! Everyone who told me to come here, I finally know what you mean. Those who haven't been...well, just go, and you'll know. It is one of the most beautiful and unique places I have seen. There is tons to do there. I already said we hiked from town 1 to town 5. The next day we took the train to Monterosso, town 5, and rented a double kayak for two hours. Thinking it would be more relaxing than the hike, we set out fresh and determined. It was a amazing to see the land from the water and just roll over the side of the kayak into the clear, cool blue water. We kayked to the next town, Vernazza, floated around. Our arms at this point were jello and we had to make it all the way back. We pushed it, stopping at another beach for a bit and laying in the sand. We turned it in, and we decided to be done with all physical activity. We cooked every night, walked along the Via dell Amore at night, sat on the cobbled streets, drank wine, and people watched. It was a very nice, relaxing time.

We got up early after our third night there and caught a train to Pisa. We walked through Pisa, saw the leaning tower and Duomo, took the typical tourist pictures, had lunch and got out. Theres really not much else there. We got back on the train headed for Lucca for the night. Lucca was a very nice suprise. A guy we met suggested we stay there because we had a night before Florence. It was a small, walled city between Pisa and Florece, with a great view of the Tuscan hills. We rented bikes and rode all around the city looking at churches and great plazzas. It was a fun, active way to see the city. We had a great pizza and beer that night. Our hostel was a little sketch. The room was pretty much down in the basement which looked like a cave/dungeon out of a scary movie. I (elaine) had a horrible allergic reaction to the air/walls/damp sheets or whatever. Was up most of the night sneezing, tossing and turning. We survived, loved the town, and made it to Florence!

Florence is amazing right out of the station, we walked clear across town in less than 20 to our hostel. We have a kitchen again!!! Stocked up on food for the week. It's rainy so we are acclimating and resting before we tackle everything in the next three days. We are very excited to be here. Watch out for updates! We love you all!

Corsica!

So I counted, due to railroad construction and one rookie mistake on our part, we made it to Corsica after 6 different trains, 3 bus rides, 1 overnight ferry and a few intense walks worth mentioning. The train from Bastia to Corte was slow and cranky, resembling Magic Mountain at times. It cut through dark, cool mountain tunnels and emerged into bursts of sunlight revealing amazing mountain views. It was a scenic rollercoaster ride through some of the most beautiful and rugged scenery we have ever seen. As we made our way more interior, the peaks got bigger and tunnels, bridges more frequent. Small villiages sat atop steep shoulders with their lone church steeples towering above the rest. Small cottages lined the rolling river and the residents tilled their gardens. Very simple, but very beautiful.

Corte is a small town of 6,000...10,000 when the university is in session. It is nestled below enormous peaks to the west and rolling hills to the east. Rushing rivers funnel down from the valleys. The water appears glacier blue and green in sunlight, sourced from the melting snow caps that still cling to the tops of the highest and furthest peaks. EXHAUSTED we trek up the winding, narrow, cobbled streets up to the the town's main drag, Cours Paoli, where our Hotel d' Nord is located. We check in and meet our friendly, english-speaking, and very attractive hotelier, Luic. We napped and showered in a nice, clean, private room. The town was alive that day as a bike race was passing through town. A man on a microphone shouted encouraging phrases and advertisements in French for hours it seemed, while they blared fist-pumping American music through town. We took a bottle of wine out to the square and watched the sun descend behind the mountains. The wine was thick and horrible, which is what you get when you buy The cheapest bottle in town. We had some awesome French cuisine and slept.

We woke up early the next morning to get a breakfast and picnic for our long hike. Luic and his friend that ran the cafe next door had a great breakfast laid out for 1 euro: OJ, bread, ham, cheese, yogurt, cereal, croissants, and coffee bar. We hiked up to the Citadel that teeters very precariously over the town. From the top of town, we got onto the Mare-a-Mare Nord trail, a popular trail that runs sea to sea across the northern portion of Corsica, Corte being its middle point. It would take about 15 days for the average hiker to span the whole island. There is another big one called the GR20 which runs South to North, essentially, which would take close to a month. The Mare-a-Mare is a very well kept and well marked trail. Rocky, but never too steep. The trail hugged the mountainside and ran parallel to the roaring river below. We hiked close to 5 hrs total. It was certainly challenging, with the unforgiving sun being the most brutal aspect. Overrall, it was a great hike! We walked back into town overheated, dehydrated, hungry, and dead tired. We had our first gelato experience, which was well-deserved. Later that night we went to La Spana pizzeria. Had great food and met a nice couple from Puerto Rico, who bring a group of students there every summer to study architecture. We were finishing up and our nice waiter came and gave us two shots of liquer de menthe in honor of Obama! So we did a Corsican toast to the new president. It was really funny.

Overall, we had mixed reactions from Corsicans. Some stared as though we had sparkling unicorn horns coming out of our heads, more out of curosity and suprise than malice I'm sure (I dont think a lot of americans come to Corte, especially, most enjoy the pleasures and comfort of the coast). Some would purposely ignore you and not stop at crosswalks, which was terrifying. And others were stoked to meet you. We met a crazy guy on the trail, asked if we were German first, when we said American, he jumped up, clapped his hands, exclaiming, "Viva l'America!!." He shook our hands and went on for 5 minutes about how he loved America, something about chocolate, beer, and libertad. He could have been mocking us, but he seemed genuine enough.

It became easier to make transactions in French, and we certainly tried. In a small, uniquely authentic town like Corte we wanted to show every bit of respect for their culture and land as we could. We tried at all costs to speak only French, hold a good demeanor, be very polite even at a loss of words, and not act/look like a typical tourist. It was a great experience. Everything we had imagined and more, right down to the shutters on the windows, cobbled streets, and constant sunshine. Everyone seemed to know each other, greeting with 2 kisses on the cheek. It seemed as though no one really worked despite the obvious wealth. The same poeple would be sitting and different cafes up and down the street all day. It seems everyone owns their own shop or restaurant. They rely on each other and the students in the off season, then the tourists and backpackers in the summer. They thrive just enough to live a life dominated by leisure, and everyone seems content. Luic, who appears to be the hardest working individual in town was not as impressed as we were. He seemed suprised when I told him how beautiful I though his hotel, town and mountains were. He shrugged and said, "I try," seeming bored and somewhat nostalgic of how things may have been 15-20 yrs ago...I suppose the grass is always greener...on to Italy!

Quick update

Hello everyone,
We are in Italy!!! We made it to Corsica after 24 plus hours of travel time, including an overnight ferry, which was interesting to say the least. The trek was well worth it. Corsica is one of the most amazingly authentic and rugged place we have ever seen. (Our internet time is going up, so I will write in detail later). We took a ferry from Corsica to Genoa and stayed there one night...It was horrible. Dirty, sketchy, and culturally bankrupt...dont go there. Then we made our way to Cinque Terre, a cluster of 5 tiny fishing villiages that hang and jut out precariously over the blue Mediterranean. It is literally the edge of the world, heaven, actually. We have met awesome people, watched BARCELONA!!! win the UEFA cup! Today we hiked the whole trail leading from our villiage Riomaggiore to the 5th, Monterosso. It was extremely challenging, we both almost died...the mojitos the night before didnt help either. The hike offered some of the most amazing views and scenery, its sort of hard to believe your eyes. We drug ourselves up steep steps and down narrow pathways clinging to cliffside. We were rewarded with an amazing beach, where we finally went swimming. The water was cold and so refreshing as the sun was brutal today. It felt amazing to finally swim in the Mediterranean, something Ive wanted to do my whole life. We are going to rent kayaks tomorrow! We have a great little room on the main drag here, with a kitchen. We have been cooking our own dinners which is a huge money saver and fun. Tonight is pasta with real pesto made just down the coast, and fresh lettuce, tomatos, cucs, olives, and balsamic, all harvested here in the area. Ohh, and wine, which is good and cheap! We love Italy, already! Next, on to Florence. Check back for updates and more details on Corsica!! We love you all!

Barcelona Day 2.

We had an interesting night out with some Canadians from our hostel and our new friend "Sven." We hit up some Americanized bars, which were fun but not very authentic. We were wandering back to the hostel from the harbor, in a fog, and stumbled upon an impromptu jam/dance session and sang Bob Marley's "Redemption Song" with some locals and people from all walks of life. Very cool, it made the excursion well worth it! Bob Marley is really popular here...its always playing in hostel, repeat even. Today we got up and explored the Gothic Quarter, which has been our favorite part of the city. Our Polish friend, Sven came along with us. He lives in England, talks EXACTLY like Borat, and is never short of words. He is hilarious and tons of fun! The baroque architecture was amazing, each building, large or small is very unique and detailed. Stone alleys branch off the main streets and wind into dark passageways lined with cafes, shops, and homes. Laundry hangs from every balcony and friendly dogs wander about. We passed by the Catedral de Barcelona and made it to Picasso Museum, which was mind-blowing at the very least. The collections starts with his childhood portraits and sketches and then each room features a different collection during different times of his life. I often forget that he lived for almost a century, so it chronicles the progression of the artistic and avant-garde influences from late 18oos up until his death in the early 1970s. It was very interesting, I could go back everyday for a week and not be bored. We stopped and had an amazing Foccacia sandwhich, and then napped for a few hours. We are still really tired and jet lagged, but we caught up on much needed sleep. Tonight, Toti led us to the "Magic, Fantastic Montjuic Fountain." It was a fountain/light/music show that illuminates and inspires the steps leading up the mountain to the massive Catalan Art Museum. We stopped at a market on the way back and bought wine and food to cook at our hostel, saving that money!! We are getting up early and getting ont he train to Nice, and hopefully a night train to Corsica, we have a place to stay there, just need to actually get there. I think it will happen, everything has fallen into place very nicely so far! We may not have Web access there, so we will catch up soon. Love!

Barcelona

Hello!!! We have arrived in Barcelona after a long and uncomfortable flight chasing the sun across the Atlantic. After a few mini-bottles of red wine and a Sonata each, we passed out for a few hours. I had trouble sleeping because an ungrateful B! was kicking my seat the whole time and barrating her boyfriend for dragging her to Barcelona...unbelievable. A couple hours outside Barcelona the sun rose from the clouds in a splendor of light and color, a beacon of the beauty and amazement to come. I soon forgot about sleep, the smell of coffee filled the plane. We made it to our hostel, Mambo Tango, owned and run by Marina, a beautiful woman from Argentina and her boyfriend, Toti, who isn't nearly as sketchy as he looks. He is sporting what we are calling a dread mullet, shaved in the front and dread in the back. They are very nice and cooked us a free meal, cold rice salad. They have a fridge stocked with heineken and corona, you grab one and put 2 euros in a box, or make your own change...on your honor. It is a great atmosphere. We have met numerous people from all over the world already. Barcelona is beautiful! Both of our Spanish skills have come back quicker than we thought, and the people are generally very helpful and congenial. We slept for a few hours when we made it to our hostel, we were both delirious with exhaustion. We woke up and took the metro to Parc Gruell, featuring a maze of Antoni Gaudi's architecture that certainly inspired Dr. Seuss and the likes of Tim Burton. The weather was amazing today so we hiked up Montjuic to the castle situated on top. The hike offered amazing views of the hazy harbor and cityscape as the sun was setting. We plan to have our first night out but wake early to explore the city.

The Day Before

Hello, everyone. This is our official blog site for our European adventure. We leave tomorrow!!! at 11:40 AM. We fly through Philadelphia, have a long layover, then fly to Barcelona. We will not arrive until 8:30am on May 21st. Ruth and I had a great weekend at Topsail Beach with friends and family. Worked on our suntan and sang some kareoke. We will miss the Home Port and the sandbar over the summer! We can't believe the day is here. We are so excited. There are definitely some nerves and anxiety as our departure approaches, and we will, of course, miss our friends and family. We appreciate everyone's support, excitement, and continued interest in our trip. Our itinerary takes us from Barcelona to Southern France, Italy, Austria, Budapest, Prague, Switzerland, Germany, Amsterdam, Paris, Madrid, Portugal and anywhere in between. We will arrive full circle in Barcelona and fly back to the States on July 23rd. We will try and keep this blog updated with as many stories and pictures as we can. Feel free to comment, as we would love to hear from our friends! My email is EKelley86@gmail.com and Ruth's is RFReyn@gmail.com. We are so excited and can't wait to share our experiences with you! With love...peace out!