ROME

We knew we would like Rome, but we absolutely LOVE Roma! We arrived on Friday midday, went to the Colosseum. It is amazing to stand in the arena where 50 to 70,000 Romans once roared, thirsting for the blood of gladiators or wild animals. The ruins have taken on an amazing shape, almost crumbling in the right spots, to make the structure look so ancient and so beautiful, and it really is. We walked around took 1000 pictures and wandered through the museum that we didnt know was there. They had some interesting ruins and artifacts found in the Colosseum and around the Roman Forum area. One case of note, was a collection of animal bones, a horse, boar, and large cat skull found in the cellars of the Colosseum...crazy! We read about how Commodus, notorius for his excessive and cruel antics, would fill the arena with 100s of ostriches and he and his friends would decapitate them with arrows, just for fun...and to please the crowd.

That night we went on a self guided night walk across Rome with a bottle of wine. Starting at the Campo de Fiori we walked through Piazza Navona, where aspiring artists and, apparently circus performers displayed their skills. We saw the Pantheon at night, threw a coin in the Trevi fountain, and ended at the Spanish Steps. Rome is like one big street party at night. The next day we got up a little sluggish and made it to the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum. We started Rick Steves Roman Forum walk at the Arch of Titus, a monument that the captured Jewish slaves were forced to build, along with the Colosseum, after Rome sacked Isreal. It led past the massive remnants of the Basilica of Constantine, past the Temple of Antonius Pius and Faustina. The green door of the temple sat about 30 feet above what is now the forum floor. It was once covered in centuries of dirt, before the excavations of the 1800s began to unearth what was underneath. We saw the temple of Julius Caesar, where he was burned and buried after being assassinated in the Senate. The Curia, or senate house, was vast with great acoustics. You can just imagine 300 senators sitting on their pedestals, hashing out the laws of the land. Or 600 powerhungry, canniving eyes planning their next assassination.. One of our favorites was a remnant of the once circular Temple of Vesta, where as long as the eternal fire burned, Rome would still stand. The Vestal Virgins, lived behind it. These women, chosen from noble families, vowed to abstain for 30 years, keep the home fires burning, and live a life of pious loyalty to Rome. After their term, they were either given a dowry to marry, or deemed unworthy, drug through the Roman Forum behind a chariot, given a loaf of bread and lantern then buried alive. Unfortunately, most faced the latter fate. It astounded us to learn how Romans, after death, can mistreat their once revered so badly, tarnishing their names and legacies forever.

Sadly, Ruth wasnt feeling well, we both caught a little bug, I got it a day later. So the rest of that day I wandered around the city, visited some Monuments, climbed Capitol Hill, went to the prison where St. Peter was held before his crucifiction, and revisited the Pantheon during the day. I walked down a few alleys and popped into some churches. Went through a back door and found myself at a wedding. I have no idea who the couple was or what the priests were saying, but it was lovely!! The next day we started at the National Museum of Rome, filled with statues from Roman and even ancient Greek times. We saw the famous Discus Thrower, a perfect circular piece displaying the epitome of male athleticism. The Sleeping Hermaprodite, beautiful goddess from the rear, and then the front, well... We made our way back to the Coloseum area because I wanted to show Ruth everything I saw the day before. We went into the Capitoline Museum together. It led you through palatial rooms decorated in frescoes and statues depicting the history of Rome. The main attraction was the gigantic Marcus Aurelius equestrian statue that stood in the Capitol Hill square before Michelangelo renovated it.

Our bus to Sorrento didnt leave until 3 pm, so the next morning we got up early and made our way to Vatican City. It was suprisingly easy to get into. We were pressed for time so we started on the 4 miles of display in the Vatican museum. Keeping a good pace and trying to soak it all in. It started with artifacts from Egypt and Mesopotamia with great cuneiform tablets, led you through the history of Rome, and culminated in the much anticipated Sistine Chapel. We saw amazing frescoes and huge works by Rapheal: The School of Athens and The Debate. These works, sum up the entire Renaissance effort, perfect color, realism, and balance. These pieces were designed by Rapheal, while his assistants did much of the grunt work. On the other hand, the next room displayed the single, greatest artistic achievement by one man. Michelangelos Sistine Chapel is perfection beyond the Renaissance and beyond human understanding. The color, detail, and content of The Last Judgement would move an atheist to kneel and pray for His forgiveness. We left through a back door which took us directly into St. Peters Basilica, the most amazing church I have ever seen. It holds Michelangelos flawless Pieta, as the body of Jesus drapes over Marys lap. Her facial expression is so compassionate and sacrificial it captures the moment of his death in complete human terms. The basilica is lavishly ornate from top to bottom. The original church was extremely expensive to build, so the Church, always a step ahead, sold Forgiveness to the rich and powerful for a large monetary sum...and thats how it was built.

Rome is one big paradox and always has been. The contrast between ancient and modern is so clear because its so close together. Florence is rich in art and history, but Rome is saturated. You walk down a street, look into a ditch and see crumbling pillars that have been there for centuries. Everywhere, you can see the physical layers of civilizations being built on top of one another. Those people or places have been forgotten or remembered. They are seen in the faces of the monuments and statues, or they are covered by centuries of silt and new foundations. Regardless, their mark is still there and you can feel it under your feet, in the beautiful churches, among the ruins, and in the constant roar and motion of the eternal city. The harness of history is strong and undeniable, but the push and pull of modern Rome is dynamic, very relevant, and extremely fun. For this, you cant resist the urges to come back. And we will, we promised!