Budapest, Vienna, Prague

We very much enjoyed the rest of our time in Budapest. The day after the bike trip I was feeling much better, yay! We started a trek through town, scoping out the huge Parliamentary buildings along the riverside. We crossed over the Chain Bridge, on foot, to the Buda side. The bridge offers an excellent view of both sides, a great breeze, and a dizzying look down to the rushing waters of the Danube. The day before we biked up to Castle Hill, we were tired, so we cheated and took a touristy, over-priced lift up. You could barely see out and we felt really lazy for cheating, especially when we ran into our bike tour guide, Marta. She is normally a personal trainer and has perfected the subtle I-can't-believe-you-could-be-so-lazy look. However, we got to the top and with a little trouble, found the laybrinths. We had learned the day before, that under the castles and palaces is a maze of limestone labyrinths. In the past, they were used for protection of the nobility in case of invasion, as well as their natural wine cellar with it being the perfect natural temperature. These particular labyrinths could hold up to 10,000 people, as well as animals and raw goods if needed. Budapest is built on a limestone delta that leads to the shores of the Danube. This environment makes hundreds of natural springs and these labyrinths possible, as the waters have continuously carved out the land over the centuries. However, people are concerned that this hollow ground coupled with increased development could lead to catastrophic sinkholes in the future. In fact, measures have already been taken to reinforce the support under certain areas of the city. We explored the dark, cold, wet, and really creepy labyrinths. They had censored music, statues, and wall paintings set up throughout. It was a little cheesy, but something different. We finally found what we were looking for. A room with a large, ivy covered column that dispenses red wine from four different spouts. We were told that you could fill up bottles and take them with you. It is certainly red wine and you could certainly take it with you, but it reeked and tasted horrible. Of course, I tried it despite a plaque on the wall saying that the wine was not suitable for consumption. Dissappointing, but still cool to see red wine coming out of the walls. We wandered through a few parks, had our 5th something gyro in the past few days and went out with some people from our hostel. We went to a crazy art bar/dance club with a dj and 2 girls obviously on some sort of psychedelic drugs. It was a little awkward so we went to a smaller, simpler place with some live music. We met some really nice guys from Colorado and the air force academy, had a great time. Budapest is a very interesting, lively, expressive, and alternative place. We would love, love to come back here!!!

Very early the next day, we jumped on a train to Vienna to meet up with Molly! The scenery from Budapest to Vienna was so beautiful. Rolling hills scattered with little villiages, sandstone castles perched on cliffsides, and hundreds of hundreds of huge wind turbines in wide open fields. It has been a trend in Europe and its great to see. I don't understand why opposers argue that they are aesthetically compromising. They look beautiful, especially when you think of the bounties of their production. We arrived in Vienna and met Molly at Museumsquartier over a much-desired cheeseburger. We entertained ourselves while she finished up her exams. We walked all over the old city, into the cathedral, through the many parks that beautify Veinna, and under some gorgeous "neo-architecture." Like Budapest, most of the buildings in Vienna are renovated and rebuilt or currently in the process, after much of the old city was intentionally bombed (by Churchill) at the end of WWII. New and wide pedestrian streets link evocative monuments for the victims of communism and the plague. That night, we got 3 euro standing room tickets for the opera, in the beautiful and renowned State Opera House. The singing was beautiful and in German. We didn't know much of what was going on, but enjoyed watching the orchestra section. Their timing was impeccable. The sound was amazing and the building beautiful...opera itself...kinda boring.

The next day we toured the Hofburg Palace, where the dominant Hapsburgs ruled for centuries. Much of the museum is dedicated to the commercialized figure of Empress Sisi, emperor Franz Josef's wife, who ruled the late 1800's until 1916. She was a tortured, unusual woman who used world travel, riding, and revealing poetry to escape the confines of the court and a life of wealth and fame that she never wanted. She was an advocate for civil and national rights, especially those of the Hungarians. Unfortunately, she was stabbed in the heart by an anarchist. She left a lot behind, but in her poetry she conflictingly longed for death, seeing it as the ultimate form of freedom. It wasn't until after her death that people understood her, Austrians became obesessed with her, and very astute ad agencies profited off her face, belongings, and her name...19th century Princess Diana. We met Molly at her school and began to celebrate her finishing exams!! and my 23rd Birthday!! It rained when we got our first drink and didn't stop until the next night. We still had a fabulous and memorable time!! Molly and her roommates were very hospitable and tons of fun. Thanks again!

We took another beautiful train ride to Prague. Using a bad map and even worse directions from our hostel, it took us over an hour to find it. Reallz frustrating, but we finally got there. We had planned on letting the reception have it for posting terrible and inaccurate directions on the website, but it was a hippie haven hostel and they were super nice...I didnt want to crush the vibes. The next day we attacked the city, walking from the famous Wenceslas square, through the new town to the old town. Prague is packed with great architecture, churches, and shops...great walking city. We visited the Museum of Communism that had a multi media display painting a vivid picture of the Communist dream, its subsequent nightmare, and the long struggle for freedom by Czechs and Slovaks. An emotional memorial remembers Jan Palach, a 25 year old philosophy student, who set fire to himself on the steps of the National Museum in Wenceslas Square, becoming a martyr for personal freedom and expression. He died 4 days later in a hospital, pleading that others not follow in his path. He became a powerful symbol for the opposition movement, which 20 years later, saw the fall of communism under the banner of the Velvet Revolution.

We walked over the famous Charles Bridge to the quaint Little Quarter and Castle Square. We wandered on trails over Petriin Hill and up to the castle. The square is very authentic and real. You can really imagine nobles riding on horesback up the cobbles lanes lined with merchant kiosks and townspeople leaning out of their flowered windows. The architecture of the palaces and courtyards is beautiful and the views of Prague are breathtaking. We went into St. Vitus Cathedral, a magnificent structure with some of the most intricate and colorful stained glass displays. Wandering back through town, it began to rain. Since that Friday in Vienna, it has been rainy and cold everywhere we have been. However, it did not stop us from visiting the local kareoke bar with half of our hostel our last night in Prague. We had a blast and sang all the usuals...Madonna, some Britney, George Micheal, Journey. We felt like we were right at Home Port! We had a little too good of a time, failing to wake up for the check out time. In pure hippie fashion, it was no problem! and we painfully caught our train to Munich.

Arriving in Munich, it is colder and rainy still. We are staying at Wombats Hostel, with some girls from our hostel in Prague! We have been starting to see some of the same people from the various places we have been. In Prague, we ran into a few guys we met in Budapest at the Communist museum. You quickly bond with people you meet and then quickly leave them, not before embarrassing yourself with kareoke. Its strange but it makes for a lively and friendly atmosphere. We plan to take the free walking tour from our hostel tomorrow and the next day we are going to Dachau concentration camp. Munich seems like a great place with lots to do, if only the rain would GO AWAY! On June 26th we head to Lucerne and then Interlaken Switzerland! We will keep you posted. Love!

ROME

We knew we would like Rome, but we absolutely LOVE Roma! We arrived on Friday midday, went to the Colosseum. It is amazing to stand in the arena where 50 to 70,000 Romans once roared, thirsting for the blood of gladiators or wild animals. The ruins have taken on an amazing shape, almost crumbling in the right spots, to make the structure look so ancient and so beautiful, and it really is. We walked around took 1000 pictures and wandered through the museum that we didnt know was there. They had some interesting ruins and artifacts found in the Colosseum and around the Roman Forum area. One case of note, was a collection of animal bones, a horse, boar, and large cat skull found in the cellars of the Colosseum...crazy! We read about how Commodus, notorius for his excessive and cruel antics, would fill the arena with 100s of ostriches and he and his friends would decapitate them with arrows, just for fun...and to please the crowd.

That night we went on a self guided night walk across Rome with a bottle of wine. Starting at the Campo de Fiori we walked through Piazza Navona, where aspiring artists and, apparently circus performers displayed their skills. We saw the Pantheon at night, threw a coin in the Trevi fountain, and ended at the Spanish Steps. Rome is like one big street party at night. The next day we got up a little sluggish and made it to the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum. We started Rick Steves Roman Forum walk at the Arch of Titus, a monument that the captured Jewish slaves were forced to build, along with the Colosseum, after Rome sacked Isreal. It led past the massive remnants of the Basilica of Constantine, past the Temple of Antonius Pius and Faustina. The green door of the temple sat about 30 feet above what is now the forum floor. It was once covered in centuries of dirt, before the excavations of the 1800s began to unearth what was underneath. We saw the temple of Julius Caesar, where he was burned and buried after being assassinated in the Senate. The Curia, or senate house, was vast with great acoustics. You can just imagine 300 senators sitting on their pedestals, hashing out the laws of the land. Or 600 powerhungry, canniving eyes planning their next assassination.. One of our favorites was a remnant of the once circular Temple of Vesta, where as long as the eternal fire burned, Rome would still stand. The Vestal Virgins, lived behind it. These women, chosen from noble families, vowed to abstain for 30 years, keep the home fires burning, and live a life of pious loyalty to Rome. After their term, they were either given a dowry to marry, or deemed unworthy, drug through the Roman Forum behind a chariot, given a loaf of bread and lantern then buried alive. Unfortunately, most faced the latter fate. It astounded us to learn how Romans, after death, can mistreat their once revered so badly, tarnishing their names and legacies forever.

Sadly, Ruth wasnt feeling well, we both caught a little bug, I got it a day later. So the rest of that day I wandered around the city, visited some Monuments, climbed Capitol Hill, went to the prison where St. Peter was held before his crucifiction, and revisited the Pantheon during the day. I walked down a few alleys and popped into some churches. Went through a back door and found myself at a wedding. I have no idea who the couple was or what the priests were saying, but it was lovely!! The next day we started at the National Museum of Rome, filled with statues from Roman and even ancient Greek times. We saw the famous Discus Thrower, a perfect circular piece displaying the epitome of male athleticism. The Sleeping Hermaprodite, beautiful goddess from the rear, and then the front, well... We made our way back to the Coloseum area because I wanted to show Ruth everything I saw the day before. We went into the Capitoline Museum together. It led you through palatial rooms decorated in frescoes and statues depicting the history of Rome. The main attraction was the gigantic Marcus Aurelius equestrian statue that stood in the Capitol Hill square before Michelangelo renovated it.

Our bus to Sorrento didnt leave until 3 pm, so the next morning we got up early and made our way to Vatican City. It was suprisingly easy to get into. We were pressed for time so we started on the 4 miles of display in the Vatican museum. Keeping a good pace and trying to soak it all in. It started with artifacts from Egypt and Mesopotamia with great cuneiform tablets, led you through the history of Rome, and culminated in the much anticipated Sistine Chapel. We saw amazing frescoes and huge works by Rapheal: The School of Athens and The Debate. These works, sum up the entire Renaissance effort, perfect color, realism, and balance. These pieces were designed by Rapheal, while his assistants did much of the grunt work. On the other hand, the next room displayed the single, greatest artistic achievement by one man. Michelangelos Sistine Chapel is perfection beyond the Renaissance and beyond human understanding. The color, detail, and content of The Last Judgement would move an atheist to kneel and pray for His forgiveness. We left through a back door which took us directly into St. Peters Basilica, the most amazing church I have ever seen. It holds Michelangelos flawless Pieta, as the body of Jesus drapes over Marys lap. Her facial expression is so compassionate and sacrificial it captures the moment of his death in complete human terms. The basilica is lavishly ornate from top to bottom. The original church was extremely expensive to build, so the Church, always a step ahead, sold Forgiveness to the rich and powerful for a large monetary sum...and thats how it was built.

Rome is one big paradox and always has been. The contrast between ancient and modern is so clear because its so close together. Florence is rich in art and history, but Rome is saturated. You walk down a street, look into a ditch and see crumbling pillars that have been there for centuries. Everywhere, you can see the physical layers of civilizations being built on top of one another. Those people or places have been forgotten or remembered. They are seen in the faces of the monuments and statues, or they are covered by centuries of silt and new foundations. Regardless, their mark is still there and you can feel it under your feet, in the beautiful churches, among the ruins, and in the constant roar and motion of the eternal city. The harness of history is strong and undeniable, but the push and pull of modern Rome is dynamic, very relevant, and extremely fun. For this, you cant resist the urges to come back. And we will, we promised!

Siena and Florence Reflection

We have arrived in Siena from Florence, before we head to Rome. We had an amazing time in Florence. We stayed for 4 nights and hit all the major stops. Our hostel was sub-par. The guy who ran it was unfriendly and unhelpful, he sat in the front room all day staring at the computer and chain smoking cigs. The kitchen was filthy. We scrubbed it down since we would be using it for 4 days. We cooked some great meals, it is really expensive to eat out in Florence. Our room was big and clean to begin with, but an army of mosquitos attacked every night, leaving us covered in bites. Luckily Florence is so awesome that we didnt have to spend too much time in the hostel.

The first day we went to see the Duomo, Ghibertis bronze doors of the Baptistry, and went into the Duomo Museum. I have written pages and pages describing and reflecting on what we have seen, but I will spare you my own opinions for the sake of time and interest. In the Duomo museum, the highlights were Donatellos wooden carving of Mary Magdelene matted in her hair. It is a grotesque rendition that Im still pondering. My favorite was Michelangelos Pieta, originally meant to go on top of his own tomb, with Nicodemus carrying the face of Mich, while holding the limp body of Christ. The angst and compassion in Nicodemus face, sums up Michelangelos conflicted life and his struggles with religion up until his death. After the museum, we climbed the Campanile, for amazing panoramic views of the city and a close up, unreal sight of the mammoth Duomo. We lost our map, so we decided to just wander. Florence is a great, and safe city to get lost in. We walked through the Uffizi Courtyard and the main Piazza del Signoria, where the fake David towers among other notable statues available to gaze and walk around.

Next day we had reservations to visit the Uffizi Gallery at 8 15am. We got in no problem, ahead of the crowd, with fresh, alert minds. We wandered slowly through the Gallery, literally in awe. It is the largest collection of Italian Renaissance art, in one place, on Earth. You could spend weeks and weeks going through each room, reading each description, and analyzing each painting. I admire anyone who actually would, (or want to for that matter). We spent a little over 3 hrs and it was exhausting. It is a whirlwind of frescoes, Madonna and Childs, Jesus on the Cross, etc... Our favorites were the Boticelli room with Alleghory of Springtime, Birth of Venus, and I particularly like Slander, showing how the political and religious tides in Florence changed as Savonarola came blazing through town with his speeches of damnation. Complete contrast to Springtime, showing ashamed Florentines all in accusation of each other, the classical statues looking down in disgust from their niches in the walls, and Venus pleading to the heavens, asking what had become of the human race. The Renaissance, like everything, had to end...or just shift elsewhere. We liked Rapheal, and works from the Venetian Renaissance, all they way up to art from the late 17th and early 18th century, leaning towards impressionism. We loved it, if I had the energy I would have turned around and done it again...but we will just have to come back!

We went to the Bargello and toured a great collection of Michelangelo and Donatello statues, as well as artifacts from 1000 plus years ago. There was too much to talk about in there. We were both really into the statues, especially after seeing endless Madonnas with gold backgrounds.
The next day we did Accademia at 815 again, ahead of the crowds!! It was great! We saw Michelangelos David, the original one, looking more like Goliath than a lowly shepards boy with a slingshot. Its hard to put into words, its just huge and perfect, and amazing. Equally, if not more interesting, were his Prisoner statues. A collection of unfinished pieces that really show the tedious struggle of sculpturing. As Mich viewed the art and rock, the figures and bodies are literally struggling to be revealed, just as the human soul struggles to emerge from whatever rock that binds it. There was a temporary exhibit of the works of famous American photographer, Robert Mapplethorpe. It was interesting how they parralleled his work to the statues of Michelangelo. He was a tortured artist as well, trying to reveal the beauty through a different type of medium. He died early, from AIDS, at age 43.

Last night we climbed to Piazzale Michelangelo with a bottle of wine and watched the sun go down over the city and the Ponte Vecchio. Florence is beautiful at night, as well. There is nowhere that I have been (yet), where the past and present mingle so closely together. Only in Florence can you listen to a man sing Paul Simon and the Beatles to a crowd of 15o under the marble eyes of Machiavelli, Donatello, Dante, and Leo the Magnificent in the Uffizi Courtyard. Only in Florence can you gaze into the eyes of David as he sizes up Goliath, turn the corner and drool over a Prada or Gucchi purse youll never own. Only in Florence can you walk under the Medicis secret passageway over the Ponte Vecchio and see a man get thrown from his bike after being hit by a lost tourist in a speeding Peugot (yes, really happened, he was ok, we helped him get his bike out of the street). And only in Italy, will you throw away your clothes to make room for the best pesto, cheese, bread, and balsamic. Then again we are heading for Rome!