Corsica!

So I counted, due to railroad construction and one rookie mistake on our part, we made it to Corsica after 6 different trains, 3 bus rides, 1 overnight ferry and a few intense walks worth mentioning. The train from Bastia to Corte was slow and cranky, resembling Magic Mountain at times. It cut through dark, cool mountain tunnels and emerged into bursts of sunlight revealing amazing mountain views. It was a scenic rollercoaster ride through some of the most beautiful and rugged scenery we have ever seen. As we made our way more interior, the peaks got bigger and tunnels, bridges more frequent. Small villiages sat atop steep shoulders with their lone church steeples towering above the rest. Small cottages lined the rolling river and the residents tilled their gardens. Very simple, but very beautiful.

Corte is a small town of 6,000...10,000 when the university is in session. It is nestled below enormous peaks to the west and rolling hills to the east. Rushing rivers funnel down from the valleys. The water appears glacier blue and green in sunlight, sourced from the melting snow caps that still cling to the tops of the highest and furthest peaks. EXHAUSTED we trek up the winding, narrow, cobbled streets up to the the town's main drag, Cours Paoli, where our Hotel d' Nord is located. We check in and meet our friendly, english-speaking, and very attractive hotelier, Luic. We napped and showered in a nice, clean, private room. The town was alive that day as a bike race was passing through town. A man on a microphone shouted encouraging phrases and advertisements in French for hours it seemed, while they blared fist-pumping American music through town. We took a bottle of wine out to the square and watched the sun descend behind the mountains. The wine was thick and horrible, which is what you get when you buy The cheapest bottle in town. We had some awesome French cuisine and slept.

We woke up early the next morning to get a breakfast and picnic for our long hike. Luic and his friend that ran the cafe next door had a great breakfast laid out for 1 euro: OJ, bread, ham, cheese, yogurt, cereal, croissants, and coffee bar. We hiked up to the Citadel that teeters very precariously over the town. From the top of town, we got onto the Mare-a-Mare Nord trail, a popular trail that runs sea to sea across the northern portion of Corsica, Corte being its middle point. It would take about 15 days for the average hiker to span the whole island. There is another big one called the GR20 which runs South to North, essentially, which would take close to a month. The Mare-a-Mare is a very well kept and well marked trail. Rocky, but never too steep. The trail hugged the mountainside and ran parallel to the roaring river below. We hiked close to 5 hrs total. It was certainly challenging, with the unforgiving sun being the most brutal aspect. Overrall, it was a great hike! We walked back into town overheated, dehydrated, hungry, and dead tired. We had our first gelato experience, which was well-deserved. Later that night we went to La Spana pizzeria. Had great food and met a nice couple from Puerto Rico, who bring a group of students there every summer to study architecture. We were finishing up and our nice waiter came and gave us two shots of liquer de menthe in honor of Obama! So we did a Corsican toast to the new president. It was really funny.

Overall, we had mixed reactions from Corsicans. Some stared as though we had sparkling unicorn horns coming out of our heads, more out of curosity and suprise than malice I'm sure (I dont think a lot of americans come to Corte, especially, most enjoy the pleasures and comfort of the coast). Some would purposely ignore you and not stop at crosswalks, which was terrifying. And others were stoked to meet you. We met a crazy guy on the trail, asked if we were German first, when we said American, he jumped up, clapped his hands, exclaiming, "Viva l'America!!." He shook our hands and went on for 5 minutes about how he loved America, something about chocolate, beer, and libertad. He could have been mocking us, but he seemed genuine enough.

It became easier to make transactions in French, and we certainly tried. In a small, uniquely authentic town like Corte we wanted to show every bit of respect for their culture and land as we could. We tried at all costs to speak only French, hold a good demeanor, be very polite even at a loss of words, and not act/look like a typical tourist. It was a great experience. Everything we had imagined and more, right down to the shutters on the windows, cobbled streets, and constant sunshine. Everyone seemed to know each other, greeting with 2 kisses on the cheek. It seemed as though no one really worked despite the obvious wealth. The same poeple would be sitting and different cafes up and down the street all day. It seems everyone owns their own shop or restaurant. They rely on each other and the students in the off season, then the tourists and backpackers in the summer. They thrive just enough to live a life dominated by leisure, and everyone seems content. Luic, who appears to be the hardest working individual in town was not as impressed as we were. He seemed suprised when I told him how beautiful I though his hotel, town and mountains were. He shrugged and said, "I try," seeming bored and somewhat nostalgic of how things may have been 15-20 yrs ago...I suppose the grass is always greener...on to Italy!